Things that belong in martinis: Gin (or vodka), vermouth, maybe a dash of orange bitters or splash of olive juice, and either a lemon peel or olives. Things that don’t belong in martinis: MSG, pasta water, garlic powder, fish sauce or “Filipino sugar cane vinegar.” Yes, this blog is an Old Man Rant.
Dave, a friend of mine, recently gave me the October ‘22 issue of Food & Wine magazine. I was flipping pages when I came upon an article on the “Drink of the Year”. The lead in was pretty good – “The martini is America’s most iconic cocktail, and it’s undeniably the “it” drink of 2022.” This looked interesting at first; however, the article went downhill from there. They gave recipes for seven “signature martinis” from around the country. A couple were twists on a standard martini. The others? While they may be good or interesting drinks, they are definitely not martinis, or at least not in my book.
Some Interesting Drinks, but Most Aren’t Really Martinis.
Among the highlights, there’s the Salmon Martini, with “smoked salmon-infused gin” with a caper berry garnish. Next is a Datu Datu Martini with “Filipino sugar cane vinegar”, garlic powder and fish sauce. Then we have the MSG Martini with MSG and Shaoxing wine. And finally, (and I’m not making this up), the Dirty Pasta Water Martini which uses starchy pasta water in the mix.
A Dirty Pasta Water Martini … Really
Now these may be fine drinks, but do we really need to call them martinis? Doesn’t it show just a little lack of imagination on the originator’s part? It takes me back to the bad old days of the Chocotini and Appletini… ughhhhhh.
Ian Fleming and James Bond stirred up quite the controversy decades ago with his shaken, not stirred, Vodka Martini. I’ll grant you the Vodka Martini is OK, but not really my cup of tea, thank you very much. By the way, it’s called a Vodka Martini, not a Martini. And yes, a martini should be stirred, but I won’t throw it away if it’s shaken.
Baltimore-born satirist H.L. Mencken famously said the martini is “The only American invention as perfect as the sonnet.” I always thought ol’ HL was a pretty smart and witty guy. And of course when he said “martini”, he really meant a gin martini.
My Martini? Beefeater gin, a little vermouth, and a small splash of olive juice, stirred or shaken depending on the day, and served up with a couple of olives. Simple, smooth and straightforward. Pretty tasty as well.
Rant over. 😉
Simple, Smooth, Straightforward and … Tasty,
Addendum:
This blog was half tongue-in-cheek and half rant. But a Dirty Pasta Water Martini? Really? It sounds like someone cleaned out a pot and used it to dilute a martini. 😉
Thanks to my buddies Tim and Mark for their commentary and suggestions for this blog. Mark is a vodka guy, and Tim views martinis as olive injection systems.
I made Risotto last week. Due to some changes in diet, it was the first time in over a year and it was wonderful. Risotto isn’t hard to make, and it doesn’t take long, but it does require patience and attention. You can’t rush risotto, and to me, that is why making it is both relaxing and a bit zen like.
I’ve been making risotto for years, and have several different recipes. It was a staple part of our dinner rotation. And then about a year ago, I had a couple of blood tests that caused some concern. After engaging in bilateral discussions with my doctor* (… 😉 … ) , I made significant diet changes, and drastically reduced dairy and carbs. Some things were easy, like changing from regular milk to oat milk. Unfortunately, cheese was practically it’s own food group for me, so that required a fair amount of mental adjustment. Pasta, potatoes, white rice, and bread? All eliminated, or severely reduced. I went cold turkey, and just did it. The good news was that after three months, the test results were back to normal, and six months later, they remained normal. As a side benefit, I lost about fifteen pounds.
Over the past six months, we’ve reintroduced small amounts of dairy and carbs into our diet. They’ve become “special” as opposed to every day, and it’s worked out fine. It turns out, sometimes, you can teach an old dog new tricks.
Last Thursday I had a series of follow-up fasting blood tests. I wouldn’t receive the results for a day or two, but decided to celebrate early and chose to make risotto for dinner that night. On the way home, I picked up some cream for the sauce, along with fresh bread from a local bakery. I mean what the hell, in for a penny, in for a pound. While I have several risotto recipes, there was no doubt in my mind about which one I would make – Ben’s Cognac Risotto – a favorite of ours, with mushrooms, shallots, cream, butter, and plenty of Parmesan cheese.
From start to finish, Ben’s Cognac Risotto takes about forty five minutes to an hour to make. As with most risottos, it’s not complicated, however, once you start cooking, you can’t walk away from the stove. You need to be present, both mentally and physically.
That evening , I started heating up the required chicken broth, chopped up the needed shallots and mushrooms, separately measured out the cognac and cream for the sauce, and then grated the Parmesan cheese necessary for the finish.
Shallots and Mushrooms – the Key to Ben’s Cognac Risotto…
The next step is an optional one, but I find it adds to the relaxing nature of making risotto. I walked over to the bar and made myself a martini. In what may be a strange coincidence, I’ve learned that the time it takes to drink a martini, is almost exactly the same length of time it takes to make risotto. Not a martini fan? A Manhattan or Negroni will do, or even a glass of the red wine you opened to serve later with the risotto. Trust me on this. It works.
I made the mushroom sauce first and the kitchen filled with that heavenly smell only sautéed mushrooms can bring. After 5 minutes or so, I added the cognac and reduced it, and then added the cream and slowly reduced it some more. I set the sauce aside, and then started to work on the risotto itself. I also let Cathy know dinner would be ready in about twenty minutes, so she could finish setting the table, and pour some wine in our glasses.
Mushrooms, Cognac and Cream – What’s not to like?
After sautéing the shallots, I added the rice to the pan and stirred a bit. I started adding the broth, about a half a cup at a time, to the rice. Next? The ritual – Keep stirring the rice every few seconds; take a sip of martini; let the rice sit a little, then stir, and add the next portion of broth. And, repeat – Stir the broth into the rice, take a sip of martini, let the rice sit a bit, then stir, and add more broth. And repeat. And repeat. And repeat. A bit of zen zone settles in, or at least it does for me. It’s just me, the spoon, and the rice.
In the Zen Zone – Just me, the Spoon, and the Rice…
As I neared the last of the broth, I tasted the rice, checking for chewiness. You still have the mushroom sauce to add, so a little chewiness is OK. I know that if there’s a bit of broth left, it’s not a big deal.
Finally, It was time. I stirred the mushroom sauce into the rice, and let it thicken a bit. I then added the Parmesan and stirred some more. Cathy brought our bowls over, and I put some risotto into each of them, with another dusting of Parmesan on top of each. I took the last sip of my martini, grabbed the bread warming in the oven and crossed to the table. We clinked glasses and then settled into the wonderfulness that is Ben’s Cognac Risotto.
The Wonderfulness that is Ben’s Cognac Risotto…
Cathy asked me if we were maybe celebrating too early, since I hadn’t yet received my test results. I answered I felt good about the tests and wasn’t worried. Besides, it’s a good thing to occasionally celebrate life.
Late the next afternoon, although I hadn’t received a call from the doctor, I logged into my account at her office. The four test results were there – I quickly opened and scanned each of them. Everything was fine, and in fact a couple of tests showed further improvement from last June. The low dairy, low carb diet was working. It also appeared the occasional piece of cheese, serving of roasted potatoes, or bowl of risotto wasn’t having an overly adverse effect on me. I could live with this.
Live is the key word. I’ve reached the age where something is always breaking down, or going a bit haywire in my body. There is always some new thing I need to be aware of for my future health. While healthy over all, Cath and I both have issues that crop up. And of course we have friends who are dealing with greater issues – cancer, loss of eyesight, early onset dementia… getting older isn’t for the faint of heart. But you also have to live, and enjoy life in all of the ways you can. For me, the ritual of risotto is one of those ways, and I’m not ready to give up on it yet. We may not have it as often, but trust me, it’s still going to appear on the menu.
Otherwise, what’s the point?
Addendum:
– * As a side note, I love my doctor, Doctor Emman Hussny, and have been with her for a long time – around twenty years. When she left one practice to start her own, I moved with her. She has a great bedside manner, and encourages leading a healthier lifestyle, without being draconian about it. During checkups, we certainly have discussions about my health, but also discuss other topics of the day. I feel like she genuinely cares about me, and I’m not just another patient flowing through her office.
– Here’s the recipe for Ben’s Cognac Risotto – enjoy! If you want to tone it down a bit, you can substitute milk, or even 2% milk for the cream.
Cocktails. There are a lot of choices. Today, let’s talk about just two – The Martini and The Manhattan. I know, I know. There are many others – some of my personal favorites include classics like the Old Fashioned, the Margarita, the Daiquiri, and the Negroni. And then of course there are other great drinks such as a Bloody Mary at brunch, a gin and tonic in the summer, or a Grapefruit Crush at a beach bar. But, let’s stay focused people – The Martini vs The Manhattan.
Where do you land in the drinking world? Light? Or Dark?
I suppose the Martini is the sexier of the two. Baltimore-born satirist H.L. Mencken called the Martini “the only American invention as perfect as the sonnet.” And we all know about James Bond and Martinis. Of course, what he mostly did was create controversy. Shaken vs Stirred. Gin vs Vodka. And then he tried to have it both ways in Casino Royale with the Vesper, which includes gin AND vodka. Make up your mind Mr. Bond.
No Martini discussion is complete without a controversy about how much vermouth. A little? A little less? Or maybe just wave the vermouth bottle over the glass? My favorite description of a very dry Martini is the one called “A Montgomery” which has a ratio of gin to vermouth of 15:1. It was named after WWII British Field Marshall Bernard Montgomery, who allegedly was so cautious in battle, he would not attack the Germans without a troop advantage of fifteen to one. Thank heavens people are more reasonable about vermouth now, and know it’s not a bad thing. Go ahead and add some. I think you’ll enjoy it. If you don’t use any vermouth, just remember you’re only drinking an iced glass of gin or vodka.
And finally, how do you garnish your Martini? A lemon twist? An olive? Make it dirty and add a little olive juice as well?
Let’s face it. The Martini is ALL about choices. If you want to have a fun argument with someone, just ask them how they make their Martini. Like fingerprints and snowflakes, it would appear no two people’s recipes are ever the same. As an example, my friends are all over the place on Martinis – vodka shaken, and up with a twist for one; vodka on the rocks with a smidgen of vermouth and two blue cheese stuffed olives for another; and gin, stirred and up, with olives galore for a third.
A Gin Martini, Up, with a Twist
By comparison, the Manhattan is a solid citizen with only a few choices. Use rye or bourbon, pick a red vermouth, and decide what kind of bitters you want to add. If you’re a purist, it’s rye and Angostura bitters, but you can live life on the wild side and go for bourbon instead of rye. As for bitters, we have a whole great big world out there now. Yes, Angostura bitters are great, but you can also go with Orange Bitters. If you live in the Virginia Piedmont, you might also visit the Whole Ox Butcher Shop*** in Marshall and pick up a bottle of Smoked Cherry Bitters from Artemisia**. Artmisia’s Bitters make a slightly different, and mighty tasty Manhattan as well. By the way, while at The Whole Ox, you should pick up a couple of steaks to grill, while enjoying your Manhattan.
The garnish? A Maraschino Cherry. Please don’t use the nuclear red ones. Buy the real deal. If you want to get adventurous, express an orange peel over the top of the drink. (At The Occidental in DC, the waiter will singe the orange peel with a lighter before expressing it over your drink).
A Manhattan, Up
One final choice, or controversy, for both the Martini and the Manhattan – Up, or on the Rocks? Personally, I like mine up, but many, including my wife Cathy, enjoy their’s on the rocks. Having said that, Cath’s a heathen about Martinis as far as I’m concerned. Not only does she have her Martini on the rocks, she also uses vodka instead of gin… ;-).
Which is better, a Martini, or a Manhattan? I suppose that’s a personal choice. Some go light, some go dark. Me? I go both ways. I don’t think there is any rhyme or reason to it, I just enjoy both. I started out several years ago with Martinis, but lately, it has mostly been Manhattans. I’m pretty sure it will change back soon enough. By the way, for me, it’s not seasonal, and usually, not dependent on what’s for dinner. It’s (mostly) a nightly decision around 6PM. Some evenings, I even surprise myself with my choice.
It’s now February and we’ve had some winter weather. People are bored and waiting for spring. Between winter and Covid, we are all surviving on comfort food. Maybe it’s time to add to your comfort, and do some cocktail sampling as well. Take your pick – Martini or Manhattan; Vodka or Gin; Rye or Bourbon; Shaken or Stirred; Rocks or Up; Olive or Lemon Twist. Try them out and make a choice… or two. Hell, I’m not here to judge.
Cheers!
Here are the recipes I use:
Martini
2 1/4 oz Gin (Beefeater or Gordons)
3/4 oz Dry (white) Vermouth – usually Martini and Rossi for me
A bit of olive juice (I like them only slightly dirty)
Olives for garnish
– Add the gin and vermouth to a shaker. Add a titch of olive juice. Add some ice, and shake for about 30 seconds.
– Strain into a chilled cocktail (coupe, Martini or Nick and Nora*) glass.
– Add an olive or three.
A couple of notes:
1. Yea, I know shaking breaks with tradition, but I like the little ice crystals shaking puts in the glass.
2. If you are retired and have the time, you can stuff your olives with blue cheese occasionally. It adds a nice salty flavor. (Another non traditional touch, but I love them).
3. I’m on something of a low dairy diet these days, so I often swap out the olive juice and blue cheese olives for a dash of orange bitters and a lemon peel expressed over the drink after you pour it into the cocktail glass. I still shake it. It’s an incredibly pure tasting drink.
4. It’s worth pointing out that my own taste in Martinis has evolved over the years. When I started out, I wanted them extremely dry (“Bartender, just look at the Vermouth bottle, and that will be enough”.) I migrated over time to about a 5:1, and have been at my current 3:1 ratio for a few years now.
Manhattan
2 oz Rye Whiskey – either Bulleit or Old Overholt
1 oz Sweet (red) Vermouth – I prefer Noilly Prat or Dolin
A Couple shakes of Bitters – depending on the night, Angostura, Orange, or Smoked Cherry
A Maraschino Cherry for garnish
– Add all liquid ingredients to a mixing glass.
– Add ice to the glass (more than you think you need).
– Stir the drink for about 30 seconds.
– Strain into a chilled cocktail ( coupe, Martini, or Nick and Nora*) glass.
– Garnish with the Maraschino Cherry.
A couple of notes:
1. Bitters are critical to the drink. The choice of bitters is up to you, but if you want a classic, use Angostura. If you are in a bar and they try to make you a Manhattan without bitters, just move on.
2. I know I already mentioned this in the text, but for the Maraschino Cherry, use the real deal if at all possible. They are about 500% better than the nuclear red ones you can buy at the supermarket. The originals are from Luxardo, but there are also other good brands online, such as Bada Bing, and Woodford Reserve.
Addendum:
• *Nick and Nora glasses are typically slightly rounded Martini glasses. They are named for the characters Nick and Nora Charles in the classic movie from 1934, “The Thin Man”, starring William Powell and Myrna Loy. The movie is a great comedy/drama, and I highly recommend it. A word of caution: Don’t try to keep up with Nick and Nora’s cocktail drinking throughout the movie – you’ll never make it. BTW – The movie is based on the noir novel by author Dashiell Hammett. You may know him as the author of The Maltese Falcon.
• **Artemisia is a local farm and vineyard not far from where we live in Virginia. Owned by Kelly Allen and Andrew Napier, they have established a local food CSA and are starting a vineyard. They are also making four different varieties of bitters, including the Smoked Cherry Bitters I mentioned here. I should mention they do ship, and also, demand is high. You can find more about them (and order their bitters) at this site: https://www.artemisia.farm/ .
• *** The Whole Ox is a wonderful local butcher shop in Marshall, VA. In addition to hand cut meats, and housemade sausages, they carry some hard to find cheeses, interesting wines and beers, and a few other items, like Artemisia Bitters. You can find more about them here: https://thewholeox.com/
Live Life Exuberantly 