Sopa da Pedra

After three days in Lisbon, we were driving north to Nazaré. Big waves were coming, and by luck, we were going to be there to see them. On the way, we detoured for lunch at the restaurant O Forno in the town of Almeirim. O Forno is famous for their Sopa da Pedra (Stone Soup).

I don’t think there’s much reason for stopping in Almeirim, except the Stone Soup. And if you are going to make a detour to eat it, there is only one place to stop – Restaurante O Forno. 

 Stone Soup – there’s a great little story or legend to go with it. 

According to the people of the village of Almeirim, a poor friar who was on a pilgrimage stopped in the village of Almeirim and knocked on the door of a house. He was too proud to beg for a bite to eat, so instead, he requested a large pot in which he could make “a delicious and filling … stone soup.” With arched eyebrows and curious glances, the family invited him into their home and set up a large pot over flickering flames and filled with water. Slowly walking up to the iron clad cauldron, the friar reached into his deep pocket to produce a smooth and well-cleaned stone that he promptly dropped into the boiling water. A little while later he tasted the soup and said that it needed a touch of seasoning. So, the wife brought him some salt to add, to which he suggested that a little bit of chouriço (sausage), or pork belly, would be better. Graciously, she obliged and dropped several thick slices into the pot. Then, the friar asked if she might not have a little something to enrich the soup, such as potatoes or beans from an earlier meal. With a broad smile, she agreed, and added a healthy portion into the bubbling water. This banter continued back and forth between the family and the friar before he finally announced that he had indeed made a delicious and filling soup. When the soup was done, the friar fished the stone out of the pot, washed and dried it off, and plopped it back in his pocket for the next time.

 When we arrived at O Forno for lunch at about 1230, there was a waiting line outside the door. We checked in for a table and were told there would be about a half an hour wait. Interestingly, three restaurants were right next to each other advertising Sopa da Pedra. Only one had a line of people waiting – O Forno. 

 We waited and watched as people entered. There may have been some tourists, but I didn’t hear any English, or for that matter, any French or German. All I heard was Portuguese. Speaking with one young woman, she said people came from all over the country for the soup.

 Finally, our name was called, and we were ushered to the table. 

 It turns out the menu, all in Portuguese, had many dishes, but at the top of the first page was Sopa da Pedra. Our waiter came. With some pointing and pantomiming, we ordered our soup, along with bread and a bottle of house wine. He pointed to the menu and suggested we might want to add an item. I looked it up, and it was olives for a snack before the meal, to which we agreed. When he took our order, I understood he was getting us only one soup. I said we wanted two, but he again pantomimed back suggesting only one, and if we wanted more, we could order a second one. 

 The wine and water came. Then came the bread and olives. And finally, in a large tureen, the soup. The waiter gave it a swirl with the ladle and left us to our own devices. 

 The soup was … delicious. It appeared a simple soup/stew, but there was a lot going on. It was thick with beans, potatoes, onions, chorizo, a couple of other sausages, some pork, and maybe some ham hock and trotters cut up. 

 Did I mention it was delicious? We worked our way through our bowls and then ladled seconds. After finishing those, there was just enough for a quarter bowl each. We left the tureen empty. I have to say, the waiter gave us good advice. There was no way we could have eaten two orders. 

 After finishing, we each ordered an espresso, which was perfect. It cut through the richness of the meal. 

 Our bill eventually came. Bread, olives, a huge tureen of delicious soup, a bottle of house wine and two coffees. Care to guess the amount? 16.90 Euros – about $17.75 US. Not only was it one of the best meals we’d eaten in Portugal, it was also one of the least expensive. 

 We said our goodbyes and our obrigados (thank you’s) and left. Although we were still 1 1/2 hours from Nazaré, it was a detour well worth taking. 

Addendum:

– For those following my posts about our Portuguese vacation on Facebook, my blogs on the vacation are usually written after the trip and often out of order.