Ochsenschwanzsuppe

In America, we often ignore cuts of meat used to make excellent dishes elsewhere – beef cheeks and pork jowl are two examples. Oxtail is another. When we lived in Germany, Ochsenschwanzsuppe (Oxtail soup) was a classic you rarely see here. It’s an OMG wonderful dish I’ve made a couple of times now.

Of course, many hear the word Schwanz, and immediately think of the Mel Brooks film, Young Frankenstein and the scene with Inga (the great Terry Garr) using the pseudo-German word schwanzstucker*. I can assure you, there is no schwanzstucker in this Ochsenschwanzsuppe. 😉

In today’s world, what we are really talking about is beef tail, but I’m going to stick with Ochsenschwanz, or oxtail, which is what it was called when we originally learned about it in Germany. Plus, it sounds cooler.

Oxtail is high in protein, has abundant collagen and is a source of healthy fats. With the high collagen and connective tissue content, oxtail was made for long, slow cooking in dishes such as this soup. It’s a great winter dish. I’ve learned from friends who also cook that it is core to many other ethnic dishes as well. As an example, my friend Antoine Freche says, “Oxtail is the preferred bone source when creating a “silky-smooth” broth for Vietnamese Pho. Oxtails are best since they contain more collagen than a regular beef bone. The collagen is what makes the broth silky-smooth.”

I have to agree with Antoine. The broth in this soup is wonderful. It is a different flavor than a typical beef stew and packed with umami**. Silky and smooth are both great descriptors, but so are tasty, delicious and “OMG this is so f’in good!” I’m already thinking of ways to use this broth for other dishes – it really is that outstanding.

This recipe combines a rich beef and vegetable broth with paprika and pepper to add some bite, along with sherry and cream to round it out. It’s finished with a roux. It takes a while to make but is sooooo good. If you don’t have quite enough Oxtail, add some chuck steak, or some other roast to make up the difference.

Traditionally, Oxtail soup is served as a first course in Germany at restaurants or special events. They have two main versions of Oxtail Soup there – one is a clear broth with beef bits, the other is a “gebundene” (bound) version and is a little heartier. This recipe is a gebundene soup.

While the original version of this recipe was for a first course, Cath and I have it as a meal. With some bread and a small salad, it’s hard to beat. If you want to add a little to it for a main course, cut up a carrot or two and simmer with the sauce in the final 1/2 hour. As with most soups and stews, it’s better the day after you first cook the broth. The meal is certainly guest worthy, but I won’t judge if just you and your partner eat it by yourselves over two or three days. By the third day, it will be mostly just broth left, but that doesn’t matter. You’ll still be marveling at how tasty it is.

Addendum:

• * Here’s the scene from the Mel Brooks film, Young Frankenstein. It’s a great scene with Inga (Terry Garr) using the pseudo German word schwanzstucker. Gene Wilder’s reaction is classic: https://youtu.be/QuHw5ivCs1A?si=_nb9DdTWr1rlTXF1
• ** Umami is a fifth category of taste in food (besides sweet, sour, salt, and bitter). For me, the best description is one of savoriness, or perhaps earthiness. Umami means “essence of deliciousness” in Japanese.
• Pork Jowl is sometimes considered traditional in Southern Cooking, particularly in a pairing with Black-eyed Peas for good luck on New Years Day. You don’t see it cooked that way much anymore, with folks substituting fatback, or bacon instead. It’s also used in Italy to make Guanciale, a cured meat considered essential for an authentic pasta carbonara.
• I have a heavenly recipe for Beef Cheek Daube (stew) that is served over saffron risotto. Like oxtail, it is full of collagen. The first time I made the dish, two of our local grocery stores said there was no such cut of meat as beef cheeks. I ended up going to our wonderful local butcher shop, The Whole Ox, who knew immediately what I was talking about, and got the cheeks for us. The recipe is so good, we once served it on NY Eve.